Create Storybook Illustrations Using Photoshop and Filter Forge 3

For many professional illustrators, Photoshop is the tool of choice to create hand-drawn digital artwork or paintings. With the right knowledge and skills, it can be used to create stunning works of art. With that said, we’re not all professional illustrators. In this tutorial we will explain how to achieve similar results by applying Filter Forge effects to quick hand-drawn sketches. Let’s get started!


Filter Forge is a powerful third-party plugin that allows you to apply over 4,000 amazing effects to your images, and even create your own. To learn more about Filter Forge, you can visit their website, download the trial version of the software, or check out their filter gallery.

Editor’s note: This tutorial was sponsored by Filter Forge.



Unlock the Secrets of Using Natural Light: Interview with Mitchell Kanashkevich

natural-light-1.jpeg

Over the last couple of weeks we’ve been launching a new dPS eBook – Natural Light: Mastering a Photographer’s Most Powerful Tool. The response has been fabulous and we’ve seen it selling faster than any other eBook we’ve produced so far.

With one week to go to save 25% on the price of Natural Light (and to go into the draw to win $1000 of lenses) I thought it’d be good to chat with author Mitchell Kanashkevich and explore a little more on the topic of Natural Light to give those of you still thinking about buying it a little more insight into the topics covered and Mitchell’s approach.

It also gives us a chance to show off a little more of Mitchell’s amazing photography.

Why did you choose to write an entire e-book on natural light?

The main reason is because, as the subtitle of the e-book says–natural light is “a photographer’s most powerful tool.” As much as I love off-camera artificial lighting setups, they don’t come close to natural light in terms of versatility. What’s also great, is that everyone has access to this tool, it’s free, and, in most cases we don’t need any special gear to harness it, only the camera that most of us already have.

I also wrote the e-book because I felt that there wasn’t enough information out there on how we can make the most of natural light photographically. When searching for material in books and online, I mostly found that the whole matter was either over-simplified or made unnecessarily difficult. I wanted to write a guide that struck the right balance between being comprehensive, yet very accessible.

You keep referring to light as a tool and more specifically as a tool for visual communication, please expand on that.

The idea that natural light or any light for that matter is a tool for visual communication comes from the fact that the core aim of every photograph is to communicate something visually. With a click of the shutter we aim to convey what something looked like, what it felt like to be in a certain place or with a certain person, or, we might want to do all of those things at once.

Composition is the primary way in which we communicate visually. The frame of the camera viewfinder is the tool to do that. We choose what to include into the frame, what to exclude, what to put emphasis on and so on. The way we work with light is the next most important factor in this process of visual communication. Light can radically change the way that the same scene looks. Particular types of light can heighten a sense of drama within the frame or, can evoke a very specific mood.

natural-light-2.jpeg

Look at the image above, it works precisely because of the lighting scenario in which it was shot. The colorful, lit-up, cloudy sky communicates just how beautiful and magical the moment, the nature is, the surfer is secondary, under other circumstances the same scene wouldn’t work. The point is that light can be largely responsible for what a photograph communicates and in that sense, it’s an important tool that can and should be used when communicating visually through photography.

You mention that there are different types of light and you dedicate a whole chapter in the ebook to different kinds / types of light or lighting scenarios. You divide something that is abstract and boundless into tangible segments. What is the reason behind this?

I feel that making natural light less abstract and more tangible makes it much easier to understand. There are certain common natural lighting scenarios, for example – light during the golden hour, twilight, or light produced on an overcast day. There are characteristics that are typical to these lighting scenarios and there are emotional associations that come with those characteristics. If we understand what they are, we can harness the light in the various scenarios much more effectively.
So, in short, I break down natural light into tangible segments to make it easier to understand it and hence, to help photographers use it more effectively in their visual communication.

What I found particularly interesting is that you mention there is no good or bad kind of light.

natural-light-3.jpeg

That is absolutely true and, I can’t stress this fact enough. I used to be obsessed with only photographing at sunrise and sunset. I wanted all my photographs to look beautiful, the image above is a typical example of a scene beautified by the golden light. As you can see, all the colors are looking particularly vivid and lively and this is great, when you want to communicate that something is beautiful and to give off an overall lively and positive mood with the photos you create.

At some stage however, I realized that photography is not only about communicating the beauty of a place or people. There are also stories of hardship, stories that evoke sombre or melancholic moods. If we photograph everything in the same, beautiful, golden light, those stories will not be communicated effectively.

natural-light-4.jpeg

The image above is of fishermen extracting fish from a drained artificial fish-pond. Their work is hard, dirty, wet and the weather is miserable, the overall mood is not a positive one–this is what I wanted to communicate. In large part because of the diffused, almost grayish light produced on a cloudy day, the story and the mood are communicated effectively. There’s no beautifying effect from the light, and that’s the way it should be.

There are countless examples where light, which makes everything look beautiful is not the ideal light for the story unfolding in front of your camera. So once again–there’s no good or bad light, just the right or wrong light for what we are trying to communicate.

In your last post and in the e-book you talk about working with natural light and “controlling” the way it impacts the scene; is this something that everyone can do?

The simple answer is “Of course, yes”, but the more complete answer is “it depends on the circumstances.” We can’t do anything about a clouds blocking the sun, but we can still “direct” whatever light we have, if we get indoors during that cloudy day. We can’t diffuse the harsh midday sun, but we can find a more diffused kind of light, if we move into a shaded area.

Ultimately, there’s a lot that we can do to the way that natural light impacts what we intend to photograph, but there are limits. If we are photographing a vast landscape for example, or if we are out in the open with no shade or buildings in sight, there is not much that can be done about the light that we’re dealt.

What do you do when you can’t “control” natural light?

I adapt to whatever light I have. By adapt I mean that I look to communicate visually whatever works best in the kind of light that I’ve been dealt. I generally have a few ideas on what to communicate floating around and when I can’t do anything about the light, I allow it to dictate which one of those ideas will come to life. Having more than one idea increases the chances that I’ll be able to effectively communicate through a photograph, no matter the lighting conditions. Below are a few examples and stories about how I adapted to certain lighting scenarios that I came across.

natural-light-5.jpeg

The diffused, flat light that I had for the entire day due to a cloudy sky didn’t in itself create any interest or drama. As a result, in this situation, before anything else, adapting to the light meant communicating a story that didn’t rely on the light to be interesting. This meant that I needed an interesting or a dramatic subject. Thankfully, I found this little guy. Having him in the photo already meant that I had a potentially strong image, but I also wanted to communicate some sense of mood, what it was like to be there. When the neutral, diffused light was combined with the cool and subdued colors at the scene (through the way I framed the image), it helped me communicate what I felt when making the photograph–a somewhat sad mood and the coolness of the air.

natural-light-6.jpeg

Here I had a very dramatic lighting scenario, the sun was in its last stages of descent and the scene was filled with a beautiful orange light. Adapting, or visually communicating what worked best, meant finding a subject or finding a way to show a subject where I could convey the beauty of this natural phenomena without taking much attention away from it. I found that if I photographed the fishermen and children pulling the boat ashore as silhouettes, I’d have the perfect visual compliment to the lighting scenario at hand. The subject was shown in a dramatic manner, yet it was rendered simple enough not to take away from the raw, natural beauty around.

natural-light-7.jpeg

Bright, bleaching midday light is great for communicating hardship and tough living or working conditions. Such a lighting scenario was perfect for visually communicating the daily hardships faced by the sulfur miners at the Ijen crater in Indonesia. I adapted to this light by photographing a moment of hardship against a backdrop and with elements which, when illuminated by the harsh, bleaching light allowed me to essentially say – this is not a nice place to work in.

There are also situations when the ideas I have about what to communicate must be abandoned because a certain lighting scenario inspires me to come up with something new. It might be because the light is so distinctly and surprisingly dramatic, or, it can just be because there’s something special in the way that it interacts with what it illuminates.

natural-light-8.jpeg

In the case of the above image, I initially wanted to convey the beauty of the monastery complex on the mountain in a pretty straight-forward manner, but, when I saw this interesting interplay of shadow and light, the way that the shadow cut through the mountain and made the buildings jump out of the scene, I was compelled to make a photograph that might not have been as beautiful as possible in the conventional sense, but certainly very dramatic.

One of the key things I took away from the e-book was that once you grasp how natural light works, you can make better images more consistently with virtually any camera. Do you have anything else to add to this?

That’s exactly right. It’s incredible how much we can do with the simplest of cameras, if we know what we’re doing, as far as light is concerned. I’d say that the only prerequisite is for the camera to have some sort of control over the exposure. Even the iPhone, with certain Apps will allow us that.

natural-light-9.jpeg

The above image is just one of the photographs that I recently took with my iPhone. There are a few more examples in the e-book as well. I really wanted to make the point that we don’t need the fanciest, most advanced gear to make great photographs, as long as we understand how natural light, our next most powerful tool after the camera works.

Do you have your copy of ‘Natural Light’ yet?

There is just 1 week to go to save 25% on this brand new eBook. If you pick up a copy in that time you’ll also go into the draw to win $1000 worth of lenses. Grab your copy here today.

natlight_468x190px.jpeg

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Unlock the Secrets of Using Natural Light: Interview with Mitchell Kanashkevich



Using LumiQuest’s Fold Flat Softbox

The power of small flash units is really remarkable. From battery powered flash units, we can pull enough light for portraits, wildlife, and lighting entire scenes. However, sometimes that light can be harsh and unflattering to subjects. Modifiers are a fantastic way to soften the light and spread it more evenly, and today we’ll be looking at one of the best ones out there, the LumiQuest Softbox III.


Why a Softbox?

The entire purpose of a softbox is to soften the light from a flash source. If you’ve visited or checked out the setup of big photo studios, you might have noticed big flash units, often called monolights or strobes. You’ll almost always see some type of modifier attached to these unit, whether it’s a big umbrella, a softbox, or a more unique type of modifier such as a beauty dish.

The truth is that for flattering photos of subjects, direct light from these units is almost always too harsh and throws unsightly shadows on the person being photographed.

When we think of light, we should always keep in mind the size of our source. An example that I frequently use is the sun and clouds. If you’ve ever been out and taken pictures on a bright and sunny day, you’ll notice the harsh shadows almost anywhere you look. Portraits in direct sunlight will feature big shadows under the chin or around the eyes, depending on the placement of the sun.

Now, consider the quality of light that you’ll observe on cloudy days. Even if you can’t see the sun directly, it passes through the clouds and is softened. Shadows on subjects are almost unobservable when there are clouds to diffuse the sun’s rays. In some ways, clouds are the world’s largest softboxes. They increase the size of the light source (in this case the sun) from a tiny dot in the sky to the size of the entire sky. The light is then described as soft.

The relationship in size with flash units is much the same. If we use a bare flash, the quality of our light is going to be harsh. We are pushing a lot of light out of a relatively small rectangle, so harsh light is the result. You’ll see photographers bounce flash to get around this, but another great way is to use a softbox.


You might not consider overcast days to be great for portrait shoots, but the truth is the giant clouds act as great softboxes for the the sun. Photo by Claire Whitehouse.

The important part of my personal flash philosophy is mixing ambient light with light from flash units. If you aren’t familiar with the term “ambient”, it simply refers to the light that’s already in a scene. It can be something like the sunlight coming through the windows, or the lamp that lights up a living room. Sometimes, it’s not enough to light a scene, so we mix in flash with the ambient light.

However, flash can have a dominant effect. This is where a softbox becomes invaluable: softening the light introduced by the flash to appear more like ambient.

As you may have already learned with photography, there are rarely absolutes. Soft light isn’t what we are always looking for, but when we do, we look to softboxes as the perfect way to lose the harsh shadows and provide great light.


Meet the LumiQuest Softbox III

Awhile back, I began becoming interested in using flash in a less obtrusive way. I loved that I could manufacture my own light on location, but I wasn’t always pleased with the quality of light that my flash units provided me. I once told a friend that my goal with flash was always to make it seem as if I hadn’t used flash.

When a fellow photographer offered up this softbox as a solution, I took the plunge. It was inexpensively priced at under $40 and was virtually a no brainer. Additionally, it didn’t require any type of special connector or attachment to affix to my flash unit of choice, and worked with all of my flash units.


The LumiQuest Softbox III is fantastic because it folds flat and fits in the side pocket of my camera bag easily.

Another one of the things that attracted me to this product was the amazing form factor that it provides. It can fold down and fit flat in my camera bag and can spring to life in a matter of seconds.

The best modifiers are the ones that you will actually carry, so this softbox scores big in this category. I’ve got enough big accessories that stay at home because they’re inconvenient to carry. So when I add something, size is always important.

After receiving the softbox, I couldn’t wait to get started with lighting scenes. Setup was nearly instantaneous. The flaps of the softbox have the crinkly velcro that attached to the soft velcro on my 285HV. One thing that I might suggest is to pick up a Honl Speed Strap. This wraps around the flash and the softbox and keeps the connection tight. The softbox is pretty lightweight so it won’t fall off easily.


I affixed the softbox to my flash unit using velcro on the flash unit. The softbox has flaps with crinkly velcro to attach to the soft side of velcro.

The softbox does a great job of softening the light and increasing the area of your flash.

I used some metallic, reflective blinds to give you a better idea of how this softbox modifies the light. The top photo shows off the effect of direct flash, while the bottom shows off the impact of the LumiQuest Softbox III. As you can see, the light has a much greater spread and throws off far less harsh reflection in the center. The reflection from the blinds is different because the light is softer when you use the softbox. Harsh light throws back harsh reflections, so imagine the ways that a softbox will aid in providing high quality light in portraits.


In this photo using bare flash, some reflective glare appeared in the center of the image.

This photo used the softbox and the result is a much greater, even spread of light. (The vignetting was an effect of the lens and aperture being used)

The cool thing about softboxes is the fact that they can be used for so many different things and in so many different ways. I spent the afternoon making some shots with this softbox to show off the variety of things that can be accomplished with it and a small flash unit.


Studio Portraits

It doesn’t take renting space and furnishing a studio to get those great studio quality photos. With this softbox, all it takes is a flash unit and a large enough space to manufacture studio style portraits from anywhere in the world.


I again recruited my friend for what would appear to be a “studio” type black background photo. In reality, the image was made in the middle of the road using only a chair and the LumiQuest Softbox III with a flash unit. Adding in a simple reflector or another light could really complete the look and provide a “studio on the go” type setup.

Lighting Environments

One of my favorite tricks to light creatively is to apply gels. It can make a part of a photo really stand out. Gels are simply colored, semi transparent thin plastic that go over flash units to change the color of the light involved.

In this photo, I used the flash with a softbox and a yellow gel to light the mailboxes outside my apartment. It makes them stand out and appear unnatural in a good way, although the softbox makes it look perhaps as if I didn’t use a harsh flash. The effect here is to provide a light that appears from nowhere, yet doesn’t have the telltale look of bare flash.


Environmental Portraits

One of the most ideal applications for a softbox like the LumiQuest is to utilize it on the go in environmental portraits. When I use the term “environmental portraits”, this just refers to placing a subject somewhere outside a studio in the midst of any type of environment.

The truth of the matter is that you will rarely have ideal lighting for photographing a person. Although natural light works quite frequently, the truth is that only flash can provide certain lighting looks. If that’s what you’re looking for, the need to introduce flash arises.

However, with bare bulb flash (no modifier) we are somewhat tied to a look. Bare flash is harsh. Again, this isn’t always bad, but if we’re looking for natural yet unique lighting, introducing flash with the LumiQuest softbox III attached is the perfect solution.

That’s exactly what I applied when I ventured out for the evening with a friend. We were testing it and fired a test shot in the nearby woods in front of some train tracks. It was almost pitch black, but we used the softbox with our flash unit to provide simple yet effective lighting.


This photo used the flash with the softbox to the right of the camera to light the scene. Despite being almost completely dark, the softbox was an improvement over the rather harsh lighting of bare flash.

Wrapping Up

In all, I can’t recommend a softbox such as this one enough. It may sound cliche, but it’s truly a game changer when it comes to using small flash units. I feel as if I can get the best of both worlds, portability and quality, from the small flash units that have somewhat limited my lighting style in the past. Inexpensively priced and extremely portable, it’s not hard to justify a spot in your bag for it.

The examples above show just some of the applications of a softbox with a flash. However, these are just a few of the great applications for it. You can turn to a softbox any time that you want to subtly add in your own soft light. Bare bulb flash certainly has its place in my list of flash tricks, but I find myself turning to applying natural flash techniques more often that mimic the look of ambient light.

How do you feel about using modifiers on the go? Have you picked up something like the LumiQuest, or are you a bare bulb flash fan? Make sure to chime in with a comment to let us know.



Use Split Frequency Healing to Retouch a Photo in Photoshop

Split Frequency Healing is a technique that you can use in Photoshop that will allow you retouch photos without affecting the photo’s respective tone or texture. In this tutorial, commercial retoucher, Daniel Meadows, who has worked for clients such as Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, Marie Claire, Chanel, and L’Oreal Paris, will explain this technique and how it can be used in your workflow. Let’s get started!

Special thanks to Dubai Photographer, Sherif Mokbel for providing the photography for this tutorial.


Tutorial Assets

The following assets were used during the production of this tutorial.


Before You Begin

Let’s take a look at the image that we’ll be using for this tutorial. Below you’ll see a typical example of markup you might receive from a client. It might be a jpeg like this, a scan of a pen-annotated print or simply a set of instructions or suggestions, but ultimately you’ll be expected to deliver on a set brief.

We have instructions to clean up the image, a little liquify for a more pleasing curve to the back and waist, and to remove the purple-blue tone from the model’s legs. I’ll cover the techniques you’ll need to complete the shot over the course of several tutorials. Remember not to deviate too far from what your client is asking for, run it by them first. If you think a background color change is really going to make the subject pop, try discussing your ideas, especially if it’s for a portfolio project. If it’s a commercial or editorial job however and the art director wants neutral white, he or she of course, gets white.

There are quite a few ways to achieve a similar result in Photoshop, and I’ll be going through a number of them, often focusing on one in particular and giving a couple of alternatives you might want to try.

The first step we’re going to follow in completing this shot is the healing, the ‘basic cleanup.’ For this we’re going to be mostly using the clone stamp (S), but we’ll do it a little differently to the way the software intended. Be sure to start off using the key commands for your tools, you’ll save yourself a lot of time in the long run. When you’re trying to meet an unreasonable deadline and your left hand is bringing up every tool and command without giving it a thought you’ll thank me for it. Take a look at the look at the shot we have to work with:

The lighting’s a blessing, the well defined shadows and highlights give us a great guide to follow when we come to carving, but we’ll get to that. The skin is very good, with just enough marks and texture variance to give us a good run at the exercise. Remember that with high end commercial retouching you’re going to be getting professional models with great skin, great lighting, make up, wardrobe etc. It isn’t about changing the shot, or the model, it’s about perfecting it. Here’s a close up of the kind of texture variations I mentioned:

It might be instinctive to head straight for the clone stamp or healing tools, but the clone stamp will carry luminosity and tone with it, causing problems in light to shadow or vice versa. The healing tools carry the texture and then attempt to approximate the tone and luminosity with an algorithm. What if there was a way of cloning nothing but the texture, ignoring the luminosity and tone, and simply replacing a piece of texture elsewhere? Well we’ve got one, and it’s called frequency separation.


Split Frequency Healing

Now we’re going to split the image into its low and high frequencies. To get a better idea of what that means, take a look at this blog post regarding the reason for the famous ‘Mona Lisa Smile.’

It was very clear to me that when I looked at her mouth, she wasn’t smiling as much as when I looked at her eyes.

Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa smiles in the blurry low frequency, but not in the high frequency texture. Look directly at the lips in the full image on the left, and then at the shadow that suggests a more pronounced smile in the blurred image to the right:

To split an RGB image into it’s low and high frequencies do the following. Create two copies of your background layer (when we’ve finished the following steps, one will be low, one high, and the original background image is kept for reference).

You’ll notice I’ve renamed them to ‘LF’ and ‘HF.’ As you might expect, to achieve the low frequency image, we use a blur. Gaussian Blur the LF layer at a radius of around 15.

The interesting bit is how we turn the HF layer into one that contains only the high frequency data, so we can view it together with the low frequency layer as one composite image. For an 8bit image, select the HF layer, head to Image > Apply Image, and use the following settings:

For 16bit images use the settings in this box:

Hit ok and you’ll have an image that looks like this:

In that layer is all the sharp, high frequency texture detail we’ve been hoping to isolate, against a neutral grey. To tell Photoshop to ignore the unhelpful grey, set the Layer Mode to Linear Light:

Our image should now look like the image below which is indistinguishable from the original (the eagle-eyed amongst you might notice a barely perceptible difference if you look very closely).

If you switch off the Background layer for a moment and toggle the visibility between just the LF and just the HF layers, you’ll notice that the image we now have is a true composite, one layer without the other doesn’t work.

But together we get the full image. The benefit we have now is that we can clone and heal on just the HF, or ‘texture’ layer without affecting the tones, and we also have the opportunity to fix tones and luminosity on the LF layer without ever affecting the texture.

Grab your Clone Stamp (S), making sure it is set to ‘Current Layer’ (we don’t want to carry any of the low frequency information onto the texture layer):

And begin to remove any blemishes by Alt (Mac: Opt)-clicking an area of good texture and painting over the areas of poor texture:

As you can see, the overall tone and lighting has remained, with only the texture affected. It’s not something we can usually do with the Clone Stamp, and the Healing Brush can fall short.

You may notice that this method fails when dealing with hard edges, and areas where there is a dominant tone beneath the texture, such as the rather extreme example below:

For this reason, it’s necessary to start a new layer above your frequency layers, and clone over any problem areas this way. Don’t forget to set the Clone Stamp’s Sample back to Current & Below.


Healing Completed

And here’s a close up of the skin after nothing but some careful cloning, 95% of which was done on the high frequency layer:


Conclusion

At this point, we’ve improved the condition of the model’s skin so we don’t have to worry about print size, we know the blemishes are gone and for many purposes this is far enough. Not for us of course, in the next tutorial we’re going to head into dodging and burning, locally adjusting luminosity to even out tones. Please share and post your comments, and I’ll see you soon!



Create a Surreal and Dreamy Photo Manipulation in Photoshop – Tuts+ Premium Tutorial

In this Tuts+ Premium tutorial, author Marcela Bolivar will explain how create a surreal and dreamy photo manipulation using atmosphere, lighting, masks, textures, and custom brushes. This tutorial is available exclusively to Tuts+ Premium Members. If you are looking to take your photo manipulation skills to the next level then Log in or Join Now to get started!

Tuts+ Premium Members can login now for instant access to this tutorial. Membership to Tuts+ Premium gets you access to hundreds of exclusive premium tutorials, top selling ebooks, in-depth courses, member forums, and much more. To learn more about Tuts+ Premium, Take the Tour or Join Today.



How to Photograph Babies: 9 Tutorials

There must be a baby boom going on at the moment because today my inbox was hit by 5 separate emails from parents of new born babies wanting advice on how to photograph them.

I turned to our archives for some links to send them and found these 9 ‘how to photograph babies’ tutorials and thought I’d share them here just in case there are others looking for answers.

Baby-Photography-4.Jpg-1
*Image Credit Nicole Hill.

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

How to Photograph Babies: 9 Tutorials



Do you Ever Shoot with Film?

I had one of those ‘I feel old’ moments last week when I was going through one of my old camera bags and out dropped an old film canister with an unused film in it.

My son (who is almost 6) was with me and asked me what it was. He was not satisfied with a ‘it’s film’ answer and I spent the next 15 minutes (and have spent quite a bit of time since) trying to explain what this ‘film’ thing is and why it would have anything to do with taking photos.

A new generation of photographers is emerging who have never shot with film.

Yet at the same time I’ve noticed something of a resurgence in the interest in old film cameras and shooting with it. A whole range of blogs have sprung up on the topic (one of my personal favorites is Japan Camera Hunter) and I keep coming across more and more photographers who are investing in classic film cameras and who are moving back to it as their primary medium.

So – lets do the poll. Do you ever Shoot with Film?

Note: There is a poll embedded within this post, please visit the site to participate in this post’s poll.

Please expand a little upon your answer in comments below.

If you answer ‘No’ – how long has it been since you shot with film (if at all).

If you answer ‘Yes’ – how long have you been shooting with film? Is it something you’ve come back to or did you never stop?

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Do you Ever Shoot with Film?



Best Way to Learn About Exposure: Exposure Modes and Metering

Today, we’ll build on out knowledge of histograms and exposure compensation and continue our exploration of exposure. You now may be wondering why your camera has so many exposure and metering modes, and which ones you should use. This article will help you understand the difference and select the best modes for you.

There are two more steps to taking control over your camera’s exposure controls:


Choosing Exposure Mode for More Control

Most cameras (with the exception of some semi-professional and professional models) have a range of fully automatic exposure modes. These are indicated by various icons and have names such as portrait, landscape and night.

If you use any fully automatic exposure mode, now is the time to stop. These modes are quite restricted and don’t give you much, if any, control over the shutter speed, aperture and ISO settings.

Why does your camera have so many exposure modes? The fully automatic modes are designed to help people who don’t know much about photography to use the camera right away. They are not aimed at photographers who can decided for themselves which aperture, shutter speed or ISO to use.

In my view, the fully automatic exposure modes clutter up the dial and create confusion. In practice, you only need four exposure modes. They are Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, Program and Manual. Here’s how they work:


Aperture Priority

You set the aperture and ISO and the camera sets the shutter speed accordingly. I use this when I’m taking landscapes, as I normally set a small aperture to ensure front to back sharpness, or when I’m taking portraits as I often set a wide aperture (around f1.4 to f2.8) for a narrow depth-of-field.

I used an aperture of f/2.5 to take the photo of a flower above. My priority was to use a wide aperture to throw the background out of focus.


Shutter Priority

You set the shutter speed and ISO and the camera sets the shutter speed. I use this when I’m hand-holding the camera to set a shutter speed to prevent camera shake. Sports photographers may use this mode to set a shutter speed that freezes action.

Though in the landscape above, I used shutter priority to insure that the wave blurred. I set the shutter speed to 1/2 second and asked my model to stay still throughout the exposure.


Program AE (auto-exposure)

You set the ISO and the camera selects both aperture and shutter speed. Some cameras have an Auto ISO setting that lets you tell the camera that it can adjust ISO between two settings (say ISO 100 and ISO 400). This is a good general mode to use that lets you concentrate on composition while the camera takes care of aperture and shutter speed.

The photo above is the sort of scene you could use Program AE for. Neither the aperture or shutter speed is important for creative reasons, and it is be fine for the camera to select both.

Creative Exercise One:

Put your camera in aperture priority mode and take a series of photos where you decide which aperture to use, and let the camera take care of the other settings. If the shutter speed is dropping too low to hand-hold the camera safely, raise the ISO to compensate. This exercise works well if you use the widest aperture settings of your lens to take photos with a blurred background.

Portraits, like this one taken at f1.8 , are a good example. The out of focus background adds atmosphere and directs your attention to the girl.

Now put your camera in shutter priority mode and take some photos where you decide which shutter speed to use and let the camera take care of the other settings. This is a good chance to experiment with using slow shutter speeds to blur motion. Put your camera on a tripod to keep it steady while you do this.

I used a shutter speed of 30 seconds to take this photo. The long exposure has blurred the motion of the sea and the clouds.


Learning the Difference Between Metering Modes

Most digital SLRs have the following exposure modes:

Evaluative Metering

The camera’s most advanced metering system. The camera divides the viewfinder up into zones and compares exposure readings from each zone to come up with a suggested exposure setting. Gives good results most of the time. Exposure is weighted towards the active autofocus point (or points) as they are likely to be covering the main subject.

This diagram shows how Canon’s iFCL (intelligent focus, colour and luminance) evaluative metering sensor works. The sensor is divided into two colour sensitive layers and 63 zones. It is complex and sophisticated, but will still get the exposure wrong if the subject is lighter or darker than average.

This diagram shows Canon cameras with iFCL metering split the frame into 63 zones. Each zone is metered individually, with the overall exposure reading weighted towards the in-focus AF points.

Note: Evaluative metering is Canon’s term; Nikon uses “matrix metering,” Pentax and Sony “multi-segment metering.”

Center-Weighted Metering

Weights exposure towards the centre of the viewfinder. Works well if your subject is in the centre of the frame. If not, you have to point the centre of the viewfinder at your subject, hold the shutter button half-way down to lock in the exposure, then reframe. Evaluative/matrix/multi-segment metering were developed to make it easier to measure exposure with off-center subjects.

Spot Metering

Takes an exposure reading from where your focus point is. Some people use this if they base exposure on the Zone System. When I find it really helpful is when you have small bright subject against a black background. You’ll find this situation a lot during theater performances and the like.

Creative Exercise Two:

Try photographing the same scene with the different exposure modes. Do they give you different exposure readings? Is it easiest to get the correct exposure with evaluative or centre-weighted metering? What does spot metering tell you about the brightness range within the scene?

Results will vary according to what you’re photographing, so try this exercise with several types of subject matter.

Personally, I use evaluative metering the mowt, but it’s useful to know how the other metering modes work in case one of them suits your way of working better.


Using Manual Mode

One potential problem with evaluative metering is that the camera readings can change according to how you frame the subject, even though the ambient light levels haven’t changed. This is down to the balance of light and dark tones within the frame, and is quite common.

The above photo shows a situation where this happened to me. The girl is dressed in white and the camera’s suggested exposure settings changed as I framed the scene in different ways. Switching to manual mode stopped that from happening.

The advantage of manual mode is that, once you’ve established the optimum exposure setting, that the camera settings are locked in and won’t change if you reframe the subject. This works well as long as the ambient light is steady. If the ambient light is changing (for instance, if the sun is going in and out behind clouds), then you are better off using an automatic exposure mode.

I start off by taking an exposure reading in aperture priority mode. I transfer the settings to manual mode then take a photo and check the histogram. I make any adjustments required then take another test photo. Once the histogram is where I want it I can continue with the shoot.

Creative Exercise Three:

Go out and take some photos in manual mode, adjusting the ISO, aperture and shutter speed individually and checking the histogram to arrive at the correct exposure. This is a good way to learn about the relationship between these settings.


Additional Resources Here at Phototuts+


Books

These books (linked to on Amazon) explore the topic of exposure in more depth:


eBooks

These short eBooks will also help you get to grips with exposure:


Conclusion

Exposure is a surprisingly complex topic, but once you understand the underlying principles you should be able to cope with just about any lighting situation. The lessons and exercises in these articles are a good start, and the articles and books listed will help you gain an deeper understanding.



Camille Seaman: On Photographing Icebergs

In this video Camille Seaman shares photos and a little of her passion for photographing icebergs.

See more of her work including other subject matter at Camille’s website.

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Camille Seaman: On Photographing Icebergs



11 Tips for Band Promotional Photography

In this post Tom Di Maggio Photography shares 11 tips for taking band promotional photography.

band-promotional-photography.jpg

Knowing your gear and how to achieve a correct exposure is the basis for every picture you take, no matter what kind of photography we are talking about. When it comes to band promotional photography, it is but a small part of the equation.

There’s a lot of factors that you need to take into consideration in order to get the pictures that you want. 80% of the work is done during the preparation of the shoot. The better the preparation the smoother everything will work out on the day of the shoot. The following tips are not about what gear to use, or what settings are better suited, but rather about organization and how to use the available time in a most effective way as to get the best possible pictures and still have fun during the process.

band-promotional-photography-1.jpg

1. Meet the band and get a feeling for their music. Ideally get them to let you shoot one of their performances and meet them after they’ve seen your pictures. Use this meeting to identify the style of pictures they want to go for and what they will be using the pictures for. You’ll have to consider space in the composition for text or other things if the pictures are being used on the web or as a cd cover.

2. Location scouting is very important, but very time consuming as well. Don’t be afraid to ask the band if they have a location in mind, ask your friends and family as well. You never know. I often use bars, restaurants or even concert venues for the photo sessions. Just make sure you always ask for permission.

band-promotional-photography-2.jpg

3. Once you found the location take some snapshots, preferably at the same time of the day as the shoot will take place and from as many angles as you can. You will have to use these in order to prepare the lighting setup for the shoot. It is very important that you know which pictures that you want to take and thus where you are going to put your strobes before you arrive at the location on the day of the shoot. There probably won’t be enough time to improvise and it will look as though you’re not really sure about what you’re doing, the band will become insecure and it will have an impact on the end result.

4. Small but important details are the clothes worn by the band members. Try to get them to match the location and the style of the shoot. In some situation you might want to go the absolute opposite way, but it has to fit the purpose.

band-promotional-photography-3.jpg

5. Make a list of pictures that you’d like to have at the end of the session. Be realistic here, there’s no point in trying to fit 10 different sets into 60 minutes. You’d rather have a few sets that are well executed and some time left for improvisation than hurrying through your sets and missing some important issues with the lighting or positioning of the band.

6. Once everything is sorted out in terms of photo sets meet the band again and explain in detail what will happen on the day of the shoot. The more they know what they’ll have to do the less explanation you’ll have to do on site, which will leave you more time for the actual picture taking.

7. If you are on a strict time schedule (because of the location or the band) make sure you meet a bit before the starting time. You can use the time to make last minute adjustments, but try to avoid big changes at that time, it could get out of hands very quickly. You have to find the right balance between being flexible and being strict enough to follow the list of pictures you want to take.

band-promotional-photography-4.jpg

8. When you are shooting, always be on the lookout for nice opportunities between the sets, if the group is small enough you might get some keepers from these shots. A second shooter would come in handy here.

9. It’s not a must but usually having some people there to help you with the coordination for the shoot. If you only have an hour you’ll need every minute to make the most out of it. Again if you’re tight on budget ask friends and family. Don’t forget to thank them in an appropriate way ;)

10. The next two are not really about the photo session itself, but I feel it’s important that I share my point of view on these topics. It’s about the never ending argument: to photoshop or not. For me the post processing is a part of the creative aspect of photography, usually I know precisely how the finished product should look like and more often than not this includes post processing. That doesn’t mean that every picture should be heavily post processed. It should be used in a creative way and not to correct mistakes that could have been prevented in-camera.

band-promotional-photography-5.jpg

11. Make sure that you only show a very strict selection to the band. Select your best 10 pictures and show them. There’s no point in showing 60 pictures, they will be surprised by the amount of pictures and this will affect their perception of your work. That being said there’s no harm in sending them a DVD or CD with the other 60 pictures at a later point in time.

See more of Tom Di Maggio’s work at Tom Di Maggio Photography, InFocus Photography and on his Flickr Account.

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

11 Tips for Band Promotional Photography